第一百八十六天: 叫人失望的歌庫島

與意大利南部很相像的歌庫島

太多感受太少時間,怎樣才能極速記下所有事?

今天決定到希臘歌庫島,原因是孤寂星球說從阿爾巴尼亞港口只需90分鐘船程便可抵達。

對歌庫島,我是滿有期待的,幻想她不太多遊客、屬於比較安靜的希臘小島之餘,還有沙灘和食物方面應該有相當的水準,畢竟我們在阿爾巴尼亞實在不算吃得好。

我以為這島沒甚遊客,物價指數大概還應付得來 - 我又錯了,從買船票至到步後吃一頓很隨便的午餐,我已醒覺這裡是希臘領土,而希臘是旅遊勝地…

我後悔自己低估了這 “不太多遊客” 的小島,我以為一下船就會見到有房出租的民宿東主在碼頭招徠,誰知捱過了沒海風差點曬暈的船程,碼頭空無一人,只有太陽和出口… 結果我們來來回回走了兩句多鐘 (旅遊中心週六三時關門…),才無奈地選擇了高檔次酒店;說實話,這昂貴的房間比起我們在阿爾巴尼亞的世界文化遺產城鎮吉諾卡斯特 (Gjirokastra) 那一間酒店,後者簡直是極級豪華和超值!!!

黃Glenn 說,要是知道歌庫島像意大利南部和克羅地亞 Rovinj、在這裡要付高昂房租與食物價錢和船票,他寧願不來;他惘然說覺得我倆像典型跑景點遊客… 聽在耳內我更迷惘,我是真心期盼來這島享受享受,始料不及的是未到已受盡猛烈陽光的煎熬、找旅宿是那麼困難和食物水準不符合預期,再者尚未尋到滿意的沙灘,更遑論浪漫地在海邊散步了,我特意帶來的未穿過的長裙,怎能在滿身汗水與 ‘立次次’ 的現在著上呢?

最惱人的是這島鎮與鎮之間相距很遠,要有車才能往很希臘少遊客的小鎮;我們身處的最近碼頭的歌庫鎮?比我最愛的希臘小島納克索斯島 (Naxos) 多人,有很多條在赤柱可找到的紀念品街,餐廳和酒店服務員都只看你為另一位遊客,又是那種不在意你從哪裡來你喜不喜歡歌庫島的模樣。

為甚麼 90分鐘船程之差,兩者的距離 - 民風上和指數上 - 可這麼大?還好,見識過,我們明天回航,回去我們有感情有朋友的阿爾巴尼亞 =)

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5 Comments

  1. angie says:

    a real "traveller" shouldn't have so much "anticipation" about a place before the trip

  2. Lilian says:

    May I have the official name of that "Song Library Island"? Is it Corfu Island?

  3. 山 him says:

    disagree! there may be different definitions of what a "real traveler" should be, but one thing is for sure – if there were no anticipation, there would be no desire to travel!

  4. Angie says:

    yes i definitely agree that having anticipation is normal, well well, but sometimes maybe it's better if we can reduce the impact of our anticipation (which is always shaped by guidebooks and television programs) on our perception of places… Only by doing so can we truly admire and accept how a place is…. for example, i read your entry on montevideo of uruguay, you were disappointed about its old town coz it had plasmas, automatic doors and coz it looked neater than you expected…. i find this interesting (indeed this is a very common attitude for tourists/travelers or whatever you call it, including myself)… we, from the so called "developed" societies, tend to like poorer and more primitive places, and tend to be disappointed if we find out that these places are not so poor and not so primitive, but somehow more modern that we expected… why are we disappointed about this? why are we disappointed coz the places are more developed than we thought? why don't we try to be happy for these people coz they are living in relatively more "comfortable" living conditions? why can't we just accept openly how a place is? these are just my wonders after all these years of travelling…. for sharing :)

  5. 霏 her says:

    Angie, 謝謝你的留言。我當然為發展中國家強起來而鼓舞,就像看見薩拉熱窩從戰火中逃出來也感到欣慰;只是若我期待看簡單、本地和back in times的東西,我不會選Montevideo。正如我不會想去紐約看自然風景一樣。地道也不等於窮,香港大排檔很地道但香港很發達;這些都與發展不發展沒關係,再說烏拉圭不是窮國家。很多朋友都愛看城市,我愛古鎮風情,其實都是個人喜好罷了,沒甚麼好不好。

    Lilian, 對,它的名字是 Corfu,我應該一早謝清楚 =)

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