Day 30-31: Surfing in Nicaragua

Here it comes, quick! Grab the board, paddle paddle paddle… And now! I pushed myself up and popped onto the surf board, balancing as I tried to stand. Being 8 ft long, it had a lot more stability than I imagined and I was surfing for the first time. The feeling: fucking awesome! I laughed out loudly to myself. I finally got to try something I’ve always wanted to.
Although the whole afternoon was just riding white water, it was enough to feel surfing’s raison d’être. Just imagine how cool it must be to carve through a proper wave with a wall of water curling over your head… Well according to Alfredo, my instructor, it takes 3-5 years of practise before you start ridig the big ones. I tried a medium wave and was wiped out, dragged along under water for several metres before resurfacing. Never underestimate the power of water.

I could stay here for a week just surfing day in day out.. nothing more magical than watching sunsets on the waves! One thing off the bucket list, a few new things added on (e.g. surfing vacations in Thailand)…

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2 Comments

  1. ace says:

    jealous! your pics are phenomenal! miss u guys so much especially with the weather being so goooorgeous! xxoo

  2. Josh says:

    Hey I like your blog. You guys should check out this place- well off the beaten track and lovely: http://www.nicaraguasurfhotel.com

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